The final work packageĀ of the AHRC-funded āDecolonising Fashion and TextilesāĀ (DFT) project focused on advocacy andĀ policy. It aimedĀ at challenging the status quoĀ and empowering refugee and asylum-seeking participants to build connections and voice their concerns for our collective uncertain future, while advocating for positive policy change.āÆĀ
Following initial desk research, the project teamĀ worked closely with the participants to listen to the systemic challenges faced by refugeesĀ and asylum seekers, andĀ elicit their aspirations for a more equitable and
sustainable future. The process led by FroiĀ Legaspi (Lead Organiser at Citizens UK, andĀ working as Policy Advisor on the DFT project) also entailed three roundtable discussions engaging 38Ā stakeholders from across the fashion industry, policy makers, and charitiesĀ working with refugees, with the purpose of advocating for policy change, in and throughĀ fashion.Ā This became the starting point for a policy paper and a lobbying campaign.āÆĀ
Refugees and asylum seekers in the UKĀ face multiple challenges related toĀ housing, safety, mental health, poverty, legal support, access to education and jobs, and so on. However, what emergedĀ as a primary concern was having access to good workĀ which could help put lives back on track and to feel independent and in control. In the context of fashion and this research,Ā we looked at general and specific policy that can benefitĀ both skilled refugees and the UK fashion industry where there is a skills shortage.Ā
The UK fashion and textile industry has been vocal about the skills shortages and subsequentĀ encouragement for people into a wide variety of jobs, including ‘fashion and footwear manufacturing, dyeing and weaving, leather work, pattern cutting, bespoke tailoring and design and development roles’ (UK Fashion and Textiles Association, UKFT, 2023).Ā Although in thisĀ project we advocate for bridging the skills gap within the industry,Ā we do notĀ endorse exploitative practices of overconsumption and overproduction which give rise toĀ unpaid overtime, poor working conditions,Ā and unfairĀ pay.
“Instead,Ā we aim for mutually beneficial placements and apprenticeships in line with the UKFTās stated aspirations where participants can beĀ independent in their pursuit of fashion business and enterprise in the ways best suited to them and their level of skills.”
ā Dr Francesco Mazzarella and Dr Seher Mirza
In the research project, we also mappedĀ barriers for refugees and asylum seekers to obtain employmentĀ and decent stable jobs.Ā They face systemic discrimination based on where they have come to the UK from and reasons for seeking refuge. Temporary accommodation further hinders their ability to secure stable employment. Efforts to address these issues are fragmented, occurring in silos through Local Councils and charities. Additionally, fashion and textiles jobs are not listed in the UKās Immigration Salary List.Ā Ā
“We believe the above policy asksĀ would not only contribute to refugeesā wellbeing, financial independence, and social integration but also benefitĀ the UK economy.”Ā Ā
ā Dr Francesco Mazzarella and Seher Mirza
AsĀ part of this campaign, visual artist and projectās co-investigator Professor Lucy OrtaĀ created a LifelineĀ activation using soft textile objects, crafted in calico fabric, that can be interacted with. Collaborating with project participants, LifelineĀ were used both at London College of Fashion (LCF) and at the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) during Refugee WeekĀ as prompts to discuss their lived experiences and the challenges they face upon arrival in the UK, as well as the opportunities to rebuild their life in the place of resettlement. The LifelineĀ zine has been created in collaboration with participants that tookĀ part.āÆĀ
“WeĀ invite you to join our call to action to build collective power and shape together a more equitableĀ and sustainable future, in and through fashion.āÆ”
ā Dr Francesco Mazzarella and Seher Mirza
We would like to take this opportunity also to invite you to the ‘Shifting Narratives‘Ā exhibition which will be held at the Barbican Library from 5thāÆto 29thāÆJuly, with the following free public programme:Ā
Come and join us in reflecting on the evolving role of fashion as a vehicle for social change and cultural regeneration, and foregrounding a just transition, especially in light ofĀ the current refugee crisis and our collective uncertain future!Ā